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The Best Taco in Jalisco

When I go to Puerto Vallarta on the Mexican state of Jalisco’s Pacific shore, I am driven by a memory. Many years ago, visiting the area with my pal Gary, I had what may have been the best taco of my...

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In the Mexican Kitchen

*    *    * *    *    * It all started, as it often does, with a big chunk of pork. Pork shoulder, that is — my favorite cut. It was on sale at the grocery store, so I bought it, thinking I might...

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Eating Oaxaca

Oaxaca, they say, is the culinary capital of Mexico. I was eager to put this to the test. I am still digesting Mexico City tacos when we arrive and check into our hotel. But my pal Mike rouses me from...

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Nixtamalnutrition

One of the most troubling aspects of home isolation is that it compels you to indulge your worst food-nerd impulses. I was lying in bed this morning thinking about actually making puff pastry, for...

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The Sierra’s Gambit

When I was a kid, I was regularly subjected to bribery at the hands of my father. The man was forever running the most tedious errands around the west San Fernando Valley — shopping for bricks and...

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