The Best Taco in Jalisco
When I go to Puerto Vallarta on the Mexican state of Jalisco’s Pacific shore, I am driven by a memory. Many years ago, visiting the area with my pal Gary, I had what may have been the best taco of my...
View ArticleIn the Mexican Kitchen
* * * * * * It all started, as it often does, with a big chunk of pork. Pork shoulder, that is — my favorite cut. It was on sale at the grocery store, so I bought it, thinking I might...
View ArticleEating Oaxaca
Oaxaca, they say, is the culinary capital of Mexico. I was eager to put this to the test. I am still digesting Mexico City tacos when we arrive and check into our hotel. But my pal Mike rouses me from...
View ArticleNixtamalnutrition
One of the most troubling aspects of home isolation is that it compels you to indulge your worst food-nerd impulses. I was lying in bed this morning thinking about actually making puff pastry, for...
View ArticleThe Sierra’s Gambit
When I was a kid, I was regularly subjected to bribery at the hands of my father. The man was forever running the most tedious errands around the west San Fernando Valley — shopping for bricks and...
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